Sun 31st Macerata 2 Day 8

Sferistero  - The Opera Arena from the outside (this morning)

Today has been a lazy day where we haven't been travelling on the bike nor doing anything in particular. We thought we'd just stay in Macerata and have a look at what this pretty town has. In the morning we had a meagre breakfast of tea/coffee and not much else and then went out to see what was what. We found out that a lot ofthe churches etc were open, to look at that is, in the morning but unavailable later. We visited the Duomo (cathedral) which was quite amazing but there was a body wrapped in wax in a glass casket - t'was some Saint or other but we couldn't find out which. We also learnt the patron Saint of Macerata is San Guiliano (in the 15th century-ish) who found a two people in his bed and he assumed it was his wife ...so he killed them both...er....of course.....he subsequently discovered it was his parents (lame excuse,I say) and chopped off his arm in penance. They made him a Saint AND ....get this...IF you give the Duomo a day's notice you can get to view IT....yes...the arm! Makes Rigoletto paying for an assassin to murder his daughter seem quite ordinary (and I know it was a mistake...)

We also visited a super building called the Palazzo Ricci. restored in the 1750's it housed a modern art collection of Macerata (and environs) painters. We were allowed in for free BUT had to have a guide. She only spoke Italian but we managed well and understood most of what she said. The tour lasted about an hour and a quarter and as we reached the entrance a very posh English couple had arrived - our Italian speaking guide invited us to sign the guest book and while we were doing so went to meet the new arrivals. The English woman seemed miffed that she have to have a guide and said, and I quote, "....but you do do it in ENGLISH, of course".... to which was rather a lot of frowning and shrugging of shoulders and then someone else said "I think it's only in Italian" and there was much huffing and puffing...at this point we said 'Molto grazie e arrivederci.....que buono il expositione....ciao!' etc etc and left with embarrassment - our guide did seem to quite amused tho'.

We then went back to our hostel for lunch and one of the soloists from 'Cosi fan tutte', that Joanne is in the middle of right now, was warming up in the breakfast room of our hostel - here he is - hope this little video works! The singer was very good and I went in and asked him if he'd like a =n accompanist so he could stand and warm-up , rather than sit at the piano. He seemed keen till I asked him if he had any music  when he said he hadn't and I realised he had played all of his 'Cosi' arias from memory as he was rehearsing....I went and finished my lunch and took this little video - click the play button to make it go...

We then had our first proper siesta before going to the Macerata Museo of carriages. Fascinating history of the horse and carriage with lots of detail and beautiful, exquisite examples perfectly restored. We even went for a simulated carriage ride. The last part was a beautiful room reminiscent of the Vatican - I took this pic (below) and then asked if we were allowed to ....the answer was NO!

Amazing room above the Carriage museum

Here's the pic I should not have taken...sorry!

Tonight we met up with Joanne before her last Opera (Cosi) and met quite a few of her fellow Opera tourers. They were a delightful lot and we rather took over a small wine bar and made loads of locals wait while we drank our wine and talked about concerts and motorbiking!  Then Deb and I went and ate ourselves silly at one of Macerata's best restaurants. Several courses and too much wine and now really ready for bed. Back on the bike tomorrow going North up the coast visiting some ancient coatal towns and having another kind of relaxing day before the great trek South to Naples (with Vesuvius and Pompeii) and then further on to Acquapesa to see Nikki.